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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.